Dallas restaurateur legend Alberto Lombardi just can’t open a bad place to eat. Fortunately for students, all his restaurants are located conveniently near campus. His Knox-Henderson trifecta of epicurean perfection – Sangria, Toulouse, and Taverna – seemed unrivaled until Lombardi unveiled La Cubanita in Jan. 2008.
The cottage-like restaurant filled with framed black and white photos and consignment furniture is my new obsession. Even on a brisk February day, it’s almost essential to sit on La Cubanita’s covered patio. The chilliness was only temporary though, as we warmed up to the outdoor heaters (which the waiters kindly started upon our request) and Cuban Queso.
La Cubanita calls it “their version of a Tex-Mex favorite.” Unlike the traditional melted cheese dip that comes to mind, this tortilla chip supplement is lighter in color and creamier, spiced up with fresh peppers and some unknown magical ingredients. It’s so good that our party scraped the queso bowl with the miniscule chip crumbs on the plate. Embarrassing and pathetic, but I’m not even kidding. An equally delectable starter is the Mariquitas con Guacamole, which consists plaintain, tortilla and taro crisps with salsa, black bean dip, and good ol’ guac. If you can’t make up your mind, just go for the Combinacion de la Cubanita – it has everything, including fried calamari, empanadas, and flauta-like “Cuban Cigars.”
One of the best things about this trendy little joint is that it’s reasonably priced. After much deliberation I ordered the Pollo Churrasco sandwich, which was served with chimichurri, lettuce, tomato, and pickled red onions: And now, I’m in love. Served with a side of aioli, I thought this grilled Panini-esque meal couldn’t possibly get any better. But I was wrong, for two reasons. First, although all sandwiches come with perfectly golden yucca fries (a must-try), I had to substitute them for maduros. After tasting sweet, chubby fried plantains, I knew the switcheroo was well worth it.
Secondly, I saved a little room for dessert. The fried banana and rum raisin ice cream and the flan sounded good, but I opted instead for traditional Tres Leches cake. The spongy, sweet torte was almost perfection for me. It definitely soaked up some rum – which was a little strong for me – but if you like lots of rum in your cake, it’s right up your alley.
For meat lovers, the Bistec sandwich is equally fulfilling. Grilled skirt steak, mushrooms, sautéed red peppers, onions and Swiss is reminiscent of a Philly Cheesesteak with a Latin twist. La Cubanita also caters to weekend early risers with Saturday and Sunday brunch from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Bottomless mimosas and rum punch are $6 with the purchase of an entrée.
It may not be the newest addition to the Lombardi family (that would be the Italian restaurant and café Cibus, located in NorthPark Center), but this quaint little café and bar is cultural, flavorful and fun; plus, its laidback vibe puts me in that “Spring Break” frame of mind. In fact, it almost makes me wish I’d be spending my week away from the Hilltop in Little Havana.
