Sunday mornings begin with the aroma of freshly grilled lemongrass skewers. As the day unfolds, the scent of Pad Thai drifts through the Sunday Thai market, mingling with the sounds of children and families browsing the stalls for the best treats—from sesame balls to yellow curry. A mix of Thai and English conversations creates a melodic backdrop as customers of all backgrounds sample fresh dishes, drawn in by the variety of authentic Thai flavors filling the air.
Tucked among the modest homes in North Dallas lies what is conversationally known as the Thai Temple, a cultural hub that draws people from near and far to experience its vibrant culinary scene and tight-knit Thai community. Each week, 10 vendors gather at the temple to serve authentic Thai street food to eager customers.
Among them, one booth stands out, attracting visitors with its tantalizing aromas and strong sense of community.
Located near the south entrance, the booth ‘J Ram Invites You to Eat’ draws a steady crowd with the aroma of freshly grilled skewers. The name “Ram” comes from owner Yanee Yoskham’s English nickname, while the “J” holds cultural significance.
“My mom’s name is Ram, and ‘J’ is what you call an auntie who’s a vendor,” Marut Cholwanit, Yoskham’s son, said. “It’s kind of like saying ‘Miss,’ but in Thai culture, it’s a respectful way to refer to shop owners.”
Yanee Yoskham is among the first pioneering vendors of the market, serving authentic, passed-down Thai recipes to the community since the market opened in 2021. Her son Marut, alongside his wife and extended family, assists Yoskhamin running the booth every week.
“My mom cooked a lot when she was still living in Thailand,” Cholwanit said. “She had all the recipes taught to her by her mother and brought all the knowledge with her here.”
Yoskham and her family, originally from Thailand, moved to Dallas in 1984 and settled in Richardson. A seamstress by trade, Yoskhamworked during the week until the COVID-19 pandemic shifted her path. Food became a way for her to share her love of both cooking and community.
The family has been involved in the food industry for nearly 40 years and takes pride in being active members of the local Thai community. In the mid-1990s, Yoskhamran a restaurant in Richardson with her sister. After it closed, she began attending Thai festivals several times a year before becoming a regular vendor at the temple market.
Not only is the family connected with loyal customers, but they also welcome and appreciate new faces each week.
“We have tons of people that we recognize — not just Thai people, but everyone in the community,” Cholwanit said. “We always recognize the regulars, but now we’re also seeing a lot of new customers because of the market’s growing popularity.”
One of those loyal customers is Wanthanee Marcum, who visits the booth weekly and takes home bags of food.
“The owners of J Ram are very nice, not expensive and their food tastes good,” Marcum said. “I’ve been coming here for 10 years, and I love meeting friends and eating good food.”
Pacharaporn “Jimmy” Silasant, the owner of a neighboring booth, also emphasizes the uniqueness of J Ram’s stand. She says the specialty of each item lies in its family recipes, which are nearly impossible to find elsewhere.
“The whole place serves original foods and recipes,” Silasant said. “If you go to a restaurant, you won’t find them. Their food does a great job of encouraging Americans to experience Thailand.”
Cholwanit said that when the market first opened in 2021, fewer than 100 customers would pass through the booth. Now, he estimates that 300 to 400 customers stop by on a typical Sunday — and as many as 600 when the weather is good.
For the past four years, the team, along with employees, has prepared extensively for the market, spending hours sourcing ingredients, prepping, cooking and handling setup and takedown. On average, preparation and sourcing starts at the beginning of each week, when Yoskham and Cholwanit source the best proteins and fresh produce from local Asian markets, focusing on maintaining the consistent quality of their signature dishes.
“We source food all throughout the week,” Cholwanit said. “My mom goes to stores like Hong Kong Market, Jusgo and Hiep Thai in Garland to source the best ingredients.”
On the market day itself, preparation begins before sunrise every Sunday for the family. Cholwanit says most food is prepared in a kitchen behind the temple, while grilling and barbecue skewers are made to order.
“My mom prepares throughout the week and then Sunday morning she goes to the temple at about 3 a.m.,” he said. “That building behind us actually has a commercial kitchen back there, so she does a lot of the prepping that morning.”
Despite the long hours and hard work, the family is driven by a commitment to the community rather than financial gain. Cholwanit works full-time as an underwriter for Prosperity Bank, while the market serves as a family effort, focused on giving back to the community. The family does not generate much profit, especially with the rising cost of ingredients.
“We spend close to $2,000 every week just sourcing food,” he said. “We sell beef at the same price as chicken and pork, at $3, even though it costs twice as much to source beef, to avoid confusing customers even if it means making less profit.”
The weekly success of the market depends on external factors such as weather, social media coverage and parking availability. Summer is typically the busiest season. Cholwanit credits the stand’s longevity to the dedication of its customers, noting that regulars keep coming back despite the heat.
“Right now, the weather is nice so it’s the busiest in April,” Cholwanit said. “Surprisingly, it’s still very busy even in the summer even though it’s blazing hot out, and people will still be out there with their umbrellas and water bottles.”
Despite customer loyalty, vendors experience large fluctuations in profit and unpredictable margins each week due to uncontrollable factors. The family business sees a 50 percent drop in sales during the off-season.
“During the busy season I would say we make between $7,000 and $8,000 a week,” Cholwanit said. “During the low season, it’s half.”
Profit margins sometimes fall as low as 30 percent at most due to rising food and labor costs.
“Sometimes we don’t make that much at all,” he said. “Just enough to cover the booth and the supplies.”
Despite the inconsistent source of income, Cholwanit and his family continue dedicating time and efforts into the family business to give back to the community. After Yoskham’s retirement in the near future, Cholwanit and his wife plan on carrying on the family business.
“My father is getting older, and he’s the one who helps my mom right now,” Cholwanit said. “I think the idea is for my wife and I to take over the booth, maybe in the next two to five years.”
Cholwanit plans to continue his family’s legacy in the market while giving back to the community. His goal is to bring people together and offer them a meaningful experience through their business.
“We love being involved with the community,” he said. “Seeing people’s faces when they taste the food, when they get to experience something new and seeing their eyes light up when they take a bite is our favorite part.”
