It has been said that behind every great man there is a woman. Shinsei, one of the latest additions to Dallas’ fine dining catalog, is undeniable proof of this cliché.
Tracy Rathburn and Lynae Fearing are two women who were previously hidden from the spotlight behind their “great men”. Tracy’s husband, Kent, was and still is the mastermind behind local favorites Jasper’s and Abacus, while Lynae’s husband Dean was the chef behind the now legendary Mansion on Turtle Creek for over 20 years.
But no longer will these wives hide their talents behind their significant others. They have teamed up to create Shinsei, an Asian fusion restaurant at the intersection of Inwood Road and Lover’s Lane that, despite its odd location, lives up to the inescapably high standards set for them by their situation.
Of all the restaurants I have reviewed this year, this is certainly the most high-profile. The amount of celebrity and the interesting concept of food and ambience have generated the same amount of buzz in the food world that Bennifer did in Hollywood. Because of this, I prepared myself for my most official restaurant visit yet.
I donned my finest blazer, combed my hair for the first time in weeks, buttoned up all the buttons on my shirt and waltzed into Shinsei like I owned the place.
Immediately after passing through the front door I was confronted by the hostess desk with two women standing behind it; I was greeted politely. I stuck out my hand and in the gruffest, most food-critic-like voice I could muster, I recited my spiel.
“Hello, my name is Simon Lang and I am the food critic for the SMU Daily Campus.” I paused for the reaction, but instead of dropping to their knees and bowing they both just shook my hand and thanked me for coming.
But for now, however, even with my slightly less than powerful credentials I was treated with nothing, but the utmost respect.
The tables of intimidation were completely turned when the women shaking my hand introduced themselves as co-owners Tracy Rathburn and executive chef Casey Thompson. I’d like to think that they were waiting at the desk for my party to arrive, but the truth is that they don’t take reservations so that couldn’t have been the case.
Not excepting reservations is the cornerstone of Shinsei’s theme. There is no doubt that the restaurant is both upscale and hip, but there is also no denying the homey and down-to-earth atmosphere that exudes from the place.
The interior design resembles the Japanese portion of Walt Disney World’s Epcot Center, if it had been designed by Tom Ford. The menu is a single page attached to a hard back by a wooden stick adding to the trendy yet traditional feel.
The restaurant manages to maintain a folksy and laid back tone, despite its trendy design. This is due to subtleties found around the restaurant, such as pictures of the owners’ children on the back wall of the main room, or “Fearing’s Kids’ Favorite Rice Balls” listed as a starter on the menu.
Anyone can talk until they are blue in the face about the ambience of a restaurant, but if the food is no good then the place is still not worth stepping into.
Fortunately, Shinsei has a pleasant atmosphere that is well complemented by the food. I would not go so far as to parallel the aura of the dining room with its food, but suffice it to say that they are both delicious in their own way.
With the exception of the sushi (which is exceptional nonetheless), nothing I tried that night tasted like anything I’d ever had before. I can honestly say that I was blown away by everything.
The three of us started the meal with pot stickers, lettuce wraps, and a platter of sashimi. The fish was incredibly fresh and expertly prepared, and the lettuce wraps and pot stickers surpassed the microwavable Trader Joe’s versions I am used to, and then some.
For our main courses we tapped into our carnivorous impulses and ordered beef tenderloin with wasabi dumplings, crusted pork cutlets with banana chutney and kobe beef short ribs. As it should be, we each thought someone else had the best dish of the three, just further proving that Shinsei’s guests would be hard-pressed to find fault in anything on the menu.
Dozens of things can be written about the implications of another sushi place in Dallas, but the bottom line is that the food at Shinsei is spectacular and worth a visit at least once – even for the price.
