In the quiet hours before the first lunch guests step into Tei-An’s intimate dining room at 11:30 a.m., chef Teiichi Sakurai meticulously prepares soba noodles from buckwheat flour, slices sashimi flown in fresh from Japan and analyzes the marbling on A5 Washu beef that have earned him a loyal following in Dallas. The Japanese soba noodle house is not only a favorite among locals but caught the attention of culinary experts like Sarah Blaskovich, a senior food reporter at The Dallas Morning News.
“Tei-An’s chef is easily one of Dallas’ best chefs,” Blaskovich said.
The restaurant’s general manager, Rose Kim, acknowledges the excitement surrounding the possibility of Michelin inspecting the restaurant. “Everyone’s buzzing with anticipation,” she said. Kim hopes Tei-An earns a Michelin star to honor chef Sakurai, who has become a pillar of the Dallas service industry. “It’s his legacy put into one building, so it would mean a lot,” she said.
The Michelin Guide will arrive in the Lone Star State this month, marking the guide’s 11th destination in North America. Created by the French tire company in 1900 to encourage travel, Michelin has grown into one of the most respected authorities on fine dining worldwide. Michelin began awarding stars to fine dining establishments in 1926, but until now, Texas has remained outside Michelin’s territory. This changed in July 2024 when Michelin announced its plans to evaluate restaurants across five Texas cities: Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston and San Antonio. This illustrates a significant shift for the state’s culinary scene and expects to bring international attention to the city’s dining experiences.
“Foodies and travel enthusiasts alike will find something to enjoy, with such a broad dining scene spanning farm-to-table dishes, fusion cuisine, upscale dining and the famous Texas-style barbecue,” said Gwendal Poullennec, international director of The Michelin Guide in a press release earlier this year.
Blaskovich emphasized the importance of the arrival of Michelin, noting the pressure it places on chefs to deliver exceptional dining experiences. “Michelin reviews food anonymously, secretively, and they do it best,” Blaskovich said. “Having these smart and interested food critics is a very big deal and adds a level of excitement for both Texans and people traveling to Texas who love food.”
While stars are ideal for Dallas restaurants, Michelin awards other types of reviews as well. The Michelin Guide includes green stars for environmental programs and sustainability, Bib Gourmand signifies more affordable and casual restaurants, and it also recommends restaurants.
Chefs in fine dining will undoubtedly feel the weight of being watched by Michelin inspectors, which could elevate dining standards across the city and raise the bar for what constitutes excellent food.
Atlanta felt the weight of Michelin being in its city when the guide made its debut last year.
“You hear about it, you know Michelin’s anonymous inspectors are coming,” said Cody Taylor, chef and owner of Heirloom Market BBQ in Atlanta. “But we didn’t realize we’d be receiving an award until we got an invitation to the ceremony.”
Heirloom Market, which won a Bib Gourmand in 2023, saw a 20 to 40% increase in the restaurant’s sales in the months following the distinction, Taylor said. The award also validates barbecue as Michelin-worthy.
Taylor and Blaskovich both believe Goldee’s BBQ in Fort Worth, awarded best barbecue in Texas three years ago by Texas Monthly, has a chance to be featured in the Michelin Guide.
“I’ve challenged the idea that Michelin needs to look at barbecue in the same way it looks at fancy food,” Blaskovich said. “The craft of smoking meat could be as serious as the craft of Japanese food, as the craft of making house-made pasta.”
As Michelin prepares to release its guide in Texas, Blaskovich points to two additional Dallas restaurants that are strong contenders for recognition: Tatsu and Lucia.
Chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi, the owner and executive chef behind Tatsu, is a leading figure in the city’s food scene, according to Blaskovich. His Omakase restaurant offers 18 to 20 courses of raw fish for $170 per person. Omakase, which translates to ‘I’ll leave it up to you,’ allows the chef to showcase their culinary creativity and expertise. Tatsuya stays true to the artistry and traditions of Japanese cuisine in an intimate setting with only 10 to 12 seats.
Blaskovich regards Lucia as one of the city’s best Italian restaurants. Located in the Bishop Arts District in Oak Cliff, it offers authentic dishes in a warm and intimate atmosphere. The restaurant’s hospitality and attention to detail––from the food to wine list––have made it a standout in Dallas’ culinary scene.
The arrival of the Michelin Guide may very well help to keep momentum going in the industry and inspire chefs and diners to try something new.
“The introduction of the Guide will be a tremendous asset for Texas, promoting our rich and diverse food culture and elevating the restaurant scene to an international stage,” Tim Fennell, director of Travel Texas, said in a press release.
Awards and bibs will be officially announced in Houston tonight.