Oh, anniversaries-those special dates that mark the passing of time. The word “anniversary” typically conjures up jovial images of celebration, success, accomplishment and even romance. They are typically celebrated with a nice meal, maybe some champagne, and possibly a gift of some sort (some might add that there are specific rules for gift giving, depending on the number of years being celebrated).

This week, unfortunately, does not mark a typical anniversary. It has been one year since Hurricane Katrina devastated the city of New Orleans. How do you commemorate an event like that?

Now, I’m not trying to make light of a serious situation, but I’ve thought of the perfect way to mark such an anniversary-oysters from S&D Oyster Company.

This may seem odd at first, but when you take the personality of a city like New Orleans into account, the concept is perfect. New Orleans is passionate about food; fresh seafood, to be precise. Why not indulge in something delicious while you mull over whether the government has handled the situation correctly (or at all)?

S&D Oyster Company has been a Dallas favorite since it opened in 1976. The cozy, New Orleans-style restaurant is located in a brick warehouse that was once McNab Grocery on McKinney Avenue. The interior has a remarkably homey atmosphere, with tile floors, small wooden tables and red-checkered tablecloths.

I decided to celebrate during the lunch hour on a rainy afternoon. With the windows fogged up from the humidity and the neon signs above the sturdy wooden bar lit by 11 a.m., it wasn’t difficult at all to pretend that I was actually in New Orleans.

A recording of a brass band was playing quietly in the background and the servers were all chatting by the bar and rolling place settings when I arrived. They welcomed me and led me to a small table in the center of the room.

The servers, dressed traditionally in black pants and white shirts, were friendly and attentive. Soon the place was filling rapidly with other customers, most not even glancing at the menu before they ordering their favorite item, but the servers maintained their unhurried efficiency.

I knew the place was famous for its oysters on the half shell, so I ordered a half-dozen. I barely had time to put my napkin in my lap before a tray of crushed ice and six beautiful little oysters was set in front of me.

I whipped up some custom cocktail sauce from the ingredients provided on the table (don’t worry, the servers are more than happy to help beginners) and voila; I had a fresh and tasty appetizer with just enough kick to be truly reminiscent of a New Orleans favorite.

If your concerned about an old myth you’ve heard about raw oysters not being safe in the summer months, then you should update your catalog of old wives’ tales.

This one dates back to the pre-refrigeration era, so be adventurous and try some. If you’re just scared to try them because they look the way they do, then again, be adventurous and try some. You may just fall in love. After all, they are considered aphrodisiacs for a reason.

I needed a little more substance to round out the meal, so I had another look at the menu. Options such as the broiled red snapper and the fried seafood platter were tempting, but I settled on a cup of gumbo instead. It was everything a good seafood gumbo should be. It was hearty, flavorful and full of great seafood.

Anyone who has ever been to S&D will tell you that it is practically a sin to leave without trying a slice of lemon meringue pie. The pie, similar to the entire dining experience at S&D, is amazingly simple and supremely satisfying.

Overall, my anniversary celebration was a success. I stepped out into the rain feeling reassured that places like this, and cities like New Orleans are certain to endure. They have a character about them that is too unique and too likeable to be swept away so easily.

S&D Oyster Company is located at 2701 McKinney Ave. and is open every day except Sunday.

Rachel Dunlap is a junior Anthropology and Journalism major, and may be reached at [email protected]